Last Wednesday, Richy and I returned from Chamsarang (True Love) Winter camp in Daesungni. There, we stayed in a lodge-like dormitory with about 100 middle school students, and more than 20 other teachers and staff members. We knew (unhappily) before coming that we would be sharing bathroom and shower facilities with all these people, but we didn't know that we would also be sleeping Korean-style: on the floor. The experience was definitely exhausting from the get-go, and I broke my usual abstinence from daily caffeine intake. Despite these inconveniences however, I was amazed to leave the camp happy to have participated. It was great to get to know a group students, work with friendly and committed co-teachers and supervisors, and actually have fun teaching English. I find myself actually looking forward to the three week camps in the summer but I also hope that they will include western-style beds and private showers.
Throughout the camp, in the stolen moments I took to bathe and take care of myself, I thought that the upcoming weekend would be a great opportunity for Richy and I to experience a traditional Korean bathhouse, known as a jimjilbang. Korean families typically go to the jimjilbang once a week or so to refresh themselves, relax, and scrub all the skin on their body really hard with a rough cloth. Our friend Min-Hwa did some internet research and found high recommendations for a jimjilbang near Bangi station. Entry fee with coupons was 5,000 won per person. After paying our fees, we were each given a key and placed our shoes in special shoe lockers near the door. Then we were issued our offical jimjilbang uniform: pink shorts and tee for women, blue for men (and red for small children, whose parents can take them in either gender's locker room). Then we went into the locker rooms to change into our outfits and store our street clothes in the lockers. From there, we had several floors of options: in the locker room, we could enter the baths (basically hot tubs featuring a variety of temperatures and treatments), the showers, the cupping room, and the scrub-down tables (where you can have a professional scrub all your skin off if you don't want to do it yourself); on the second floor, you can meet your male friends while wearing your fancy little outfits and try out some of the saunas which range in temp from 43 C (109 F) to 72 C (160 F), afterward you can jump into the cold room -5 C (23 F and complete with snow), or buy a smoothie or lunch at one of the restaurants (and pay with your locker key so you don't have to worry about carrying your wallet around); on the third floor, you'll find more saunas, massage and steam tables, places to get facials and manicures, doctor fish (that eat all the dead skin off your feet), a computer room, an arcade, and rooms full of little cubbies where you can take a nap (most jimjilbangs are open 24hrs so if you need a place to sleep in a pinch this is an option); on the fourth floor is the pool, and above that, there were tennis courts, racquetball rooms, and other such things. Overall, it was a really good experience, but I left feeling a little exhausted and hoping for a less crowded venue for our next jimjilbang experience.
This week is Seollal, also known as Lunar New Year, and we will be celebrating our time off work by traveling south to the city of Gyeongju with our friends Tom and Lindsey. Sometimes called the Kyoto of Korea, Gyeongju is known as one of the most beautiful and historic cities in Korea as it was the capital of the Shilla dynasty from the 7th to the 9th centuries. We're really looking forward to the trip and will definitely be updating the blog when we get back.
Happy Lunar New Year! Hope you enjoy the new look of the blog and the photo cast pictures taken with Richy's new camera!
By Katie
3.2.08
21.1.08
Teeth and Camp
A game, any game, involving many children moving about very quickly on a hard surface such as concrete, inevitably leads to injury. This was the case approximately 15 years ago when, as I only vaguely remember, I was the victim of such a wonderfully instructed Physical Education lesson. The details are blurred by my young age at the time and the ensuing years of subsequent memories, though it was a more important event than many others in my childhood. I remember falling, and someone falling on top of me, and my face smashing into the hard and cold concrete, and getting up to realize that my front right tooth had been broken. I remember going to the nurses office and having my mother come and take me to the dentist. I remember that within perhaps the span of only an hour I had went from having a devastated sense of self-esteem from having a chipped front tooth, to it being like nothing had ever happened. After that my mind never frequently went over the details of that event, though the memory was vivid enough for it to be saved until now.
Fast forward 15 years and a couple thousand miles across the western ocean to Seoul, South Korea. A few friends and I are in a cozy little bar, I'm fiddling with my new camera. Our friend Kitho ordered a plate of french fries to share with us. I began eating the rather soft and large french fries, never once were did it cross my mind that my teeth were in jeopardy. I thought that I'd bitten into a hard over-fried french fry, something unchewable, I spit it out. Moments later the memory of PE class in the third grade came rushing back. It wasn't in fact, an over-cooked hard piece of a french fry, but the replacement tooth that I'd never thought twice about since the 3rd grade.
There were several reasons why this was a bad time for this to happen. First, it was after midnight. Second, we had to leave the next morning to go to a sleep-away camp in an out-in-the-middle-of-nowhere town about an hour outside of Seoul. I really wasn't looking forward to having to teach a 10 day camp with a half-tooth. But unfortunately, in a city of 10 million people, apparently there is no such thing as a dentist that works on Sundays. So after visiting two emergence rooms, and explaining that waiting until Monday wasn't an option, we had to depart for the winter camp with nothing more than a paste applied to my tooth to stop the sensitivity I'd been feeling.
I really wanted this to be fixed as soon as possible. As the doctor in the second emergency room aptly stated, in rather good english, "The problem is that it doesn't look so good." (One note about the healthcare profession in Korea: nearly every doctor speaks english well and if not, someone in the hospital or office will speak english well, as they have more than likely studied abroad. So, luckily, translation isn't too troublesome to worry about.) Well, in Seoul I know I could find decent dental care, but in the rather small resort village, in the off-season, where the camp is located, I was worried that the best they would be able to muster was some magician/shaman trained in chinese medicine and traditional arts. Well, to shorten this already over-the-top narrative, I was mistaken. Though I had to wait an additional 24 hours, the next morning after we arrived they took me to a quite-modern looking and advanced dental office called, "New York Dental," (probably named after where he studied.) The dentist had prominently displayed a photograph of himself among a group of western dentists. And he spoke rather good english. I didn't even have to wait 5 min. and within maybe 45 min. total my tooth was fixed. We were back an hour or so before the students even arrived at the camp.
Now my teeth are back to normal, though the novocaine has yet to wear off, but I'm still trying to remember the details about the initial incident, who fell on top of me, for instance. And I can't help but wonder why french fries managed to pull it off, and not the sandwich that I'd eaten an hour or two before. Nevertheless, I can safely say that the dental system in Korea is at least on par with the dental system in the states 4 years ago, which was about the last time I visited a dentist.
Fast forward 15 years and a couple thousand miles across the western ocean to Seoul, South Korea. A few friends and I are in a cozy little bar, I'm fiddling with my new camera. Our friend Kitho ordered a plate of french fries to share with us. I began eating the rather soft and large french fries, never once were did it cross my mind that my teeth were in jeopardy. I thought that I'd bitten into a hard over-fried french fry, something unchewable, I spit it out. Moments later the memory of PE class in the third grade came rushing back. It wasn't in fact, an over-cooked hard piece of a french fry, but the replacement tooth that I'd never thought twice about since the 3rd grade.
There were several reasons why this was a bad time for this to happen. First, it was after midnight. Second, we had to leave the next morning to go to a sleep-away camp in an out-in-the-middle-of-nowhere town about an hour outside of Seoul. I really wasn't looking forward to having to teach a 10 day camp with a half-tooth. But unfortunately, in a city of 10 million people, apparently there is no such thing as a dentist that works on Sundays. So after visiting two emergence rooms, and explaining that waiting until Monday wasn't an option, we had to depart for the winter camp with nothing more than a paste applied to my tooth to stop the sensitivity I'd been feeling.
I really wanted this to be fixed as soon as possible. As the doctor in the second emergency room aptly stated, in rather good english, "The problem is that it doesn't look so good." (One note about the healthcare profession in Korea: nearly every doctor speaks english well and if not, someone in the hospital or office will speak english well, as they have more than likely studied abroad. So, luckily, translation isn't too troublesome to worry about.) Well, in Seoul I know I could find decent dental care, but in the rather small resort village, in the off-season, where the camp is located, I was worried that the best they would be able to muster was some magician/shaman trained in chinese medicine and traditional arts. Well, to shorten this already over-the-top narrative, I was mistaken. Though I had to wait an additional 24 hours, the next morning after we arrived they took me to a quite-modern looking and advanced dental office called, "New York Dental," (probably named after where he studied.) The dentist had prominently displayed a photograph of himself among a group of western dentists. And he spoke rather good english. I didn't even have to wait 5 min. and within maybe 45 min. total my tooth was fixed. We were back an hour or so before the students even arrived at the camp.
Now my teeth are back to normal, though the novocaine has yet to wear off, but I'm still trying to remember the details about the initial incident, who fell on top of me, for instance. And I can't help but wonder why french fries managed to pull it off, and not the sandwich that I'd eaten an hour or two before. Nevertheless, I can safely say that the dental system in Korea is at least on par with the dental system in the states 4 years ago, which was about the last time I visited a dentist.
14.1.08
The New Year
So back home you think the holidays have already passed... well not in Korea! We're still in the midst of the holiday season with Lunar New Year coming up at the beginning of February. It's a good thing too because the holiday lights are necessary to your emotional well-being when you're wandering around with your face freezing off in the dead of the Korean winter.

Haley came and went, sadly. We didn't do as many glamorous things as I had hoped. The cold weather put a bit of a damper on any out of the house activities. On the upside, I felt like my home life was normal again. I think I am used to having an overabundance of estrogen in my living situations. This whole 50-50 thing is just not what I'm used to. We did go out to a fancy dinner for New Years (the best Italian food I've had in a long time), did a lot of shopping, and visited the DMZ.

The DMZ is a several kilometer-wide expanse of unoccupied territory between North and South Korea. It is manned on both sides by military personnel and monitored by the United Nations. It's necessary because the Korean war is still technically not over, as a peace treaty was never signed, only a cease fire (I read in the news today that the plan is to have a peace treaty signed by 2010). While the land is still riddled with land mines and anti-tank barriers, it now harbors some of the most pristine wilderness on the Korean peninsula (including tiny deer that grow fangs instead of antlers) as a result of it being virtually untouched by mankind for over 50 years. We got to stand in North Korea for a few moments and took some bleak-looking but interesting pictures. On the way back in the bus we watched a documentary about the Korean war, and it was amazing to see footage of the city back when it was leveled by war (only 50 years ago) while driving through the giant metropolis that has sprung up since.
Richy and I have both started our in-school winter camps which are much more relaxed that our normal school days. It's nice having a small number of students to get to know and be able to have more one-on-one time with them. It's also nice getting off work early and having the rest of the day to do whatever we want. Next weekend we start our away camp, so for ten days we'll be staying at a complex outside of the city. I'm a little bit nervous about it just because I don't really know what to expect. I hope it isn't too stressful as I know other NSETs have complained about them in the past. Either way, we'll be making extra money which we will be spending on our trip to Thailand for the last two weeks of February. We are both looking forward to sand and sunshine. It will be a much needed break from all the cold weather here. I'm hoping that springtime in Seoul will be showing itself when we get back.
Richy recently invested in a fancy digital SLR camera so he's been taking a lot more pictures. So we should have more photos up soon (and of a much higher quality).

By Katie

Haley came and went, sadly. We didn't do as many glamorous things as I had hoped. The cold weather put a bit of a damper on any out of the house activities. On the upside, I felt like my home life was normal again. I think I am used to having an overabundance of estrogen in my living situations. This whole 50-50 thing is just not what I'm used to. We did go out to a fancy dinner for New Years (the best Italian food I've had in a long time), did a lot of shopping, and visited the DMZ.
The DMZ is a several kilometer-wide expanse of unoccupied territory between North and South Korea. It is manned on both sides by military personnel and monitored by the United Nations. It's necessary because the Korean war is still technically not over, as a peace treaty was never signed, only a cease fire (I read in the news today that the plan is to have a peace treaty signed by 2010). While the land is still riddled with land mines and anti-tank barriers, it now harbors some of the most pristine wilderness on the Korean peninsula (including tiny deer that grow fangs instead of antlers) as a result of it being virtually untouched by mankind for over 50 years. We got to stand in North Korea for a few moments and took some bleak-looking but interesting pictures. On the way back in the bus we watched a documentary about the Korean war, and it was amazing to see footage of the city back when it was leveled by war (only 50 years ago) while driving through the giant metropolis that has sprung up since.
Richy and I have both started our in-school winter camps which are much more relaxed that our normal school days. It's nice having a small number of students to get to know and be able to have more one-on-one time with them. It's also nice getting off work early and having the rest of the day to do whatever we want. Next weekend we start our away camp, so for ten days we'll be staying at a complex outside of the city. I'm a little bit nervous about it just because I don't really know what to expect. I hope it isn't too stressful as I know other NSETs have complained about them in the past. Either way, we'll be making extra money which we will be spending on our trip to Thailand for the last two weeks of February. We are both looking forward to sand and sunshine. It will be a much needed break from all the cold weather here. I'm hoping that springtime in Seoul will be showing itself when we get back.
Richy recently invested in a fancy digital SLR camera so he's been taking a lot more pictures. So we should have more photos up soon (and of a much higher quality).
By Katie
29.12.07
Winter Break!
We have a week off. An entire week away from school where we get to do whatever we want. Too bad it's only a week. It's the end of our first semester, and the end of the Korean school year. Yesterday I had to say goodbye to the two Vice-Principals at my school because... I won't be seeing them for a month and a half? I'm not sure exactly what the hoopla was about, but apparently the last day of the semester/year is a mildly formal affair. It was the last day of the school year, but I would have expected some sort of graduation ceremony or goodbye to the students event. There was no such thing. I was just taken in to say something kind to the VPs and bow to them. And since they have the final say in affairs related to me (i.e. leaving early or vacation time), I don't have any problems with doing whatever is necessary to keep them happy.
After the formalities they let me leave early. Katie and I had to get to the airport by 5:30 to meet Haley (Katie's younger sister), and it's about a two hour ride on the subway from our apartment. Haley's here to visit for a couple of weeks. We're happy to have some company. The next week should be pretty fun. We don't know what we'll be doing for New Year's Eve, but it doesn't look like we'll be going to Japan like we'd wanted to do. It would end up being too much for Haley to afford. So we'll be sticking around here instead.
It'll be nice to have a break though. We might actually have enough time to relax and reflect and think. Then next week we start our winter camps.
After the formalities they let me leave early. Katie and I had to get to the airport by 5:30 to meet Haley (Katie's younger sister), and it's about a two hour ride on the subway from our apartment. Haley's here to visit for a couple of weeks. We're happy to have some company. The next week should be pretty fun. We don't know what we'll be doing for New Year's Eve, but it doesn't look like we'll be going to Japan like we'd wanted to do. It would end up being too much for Haley to afford. So we'll be sticking around here instead.
It'll be nice to have a break though. We might actually have enough time to relax and reflect and think. Then next week we start our winter camps.
24.12.07
Four Months In
Today marks our fourth month here. That's one-third of our time. And the journey to the half-way mark (six months) is probably going to be fast. Our regular classes end this week, and between now and the beginning of March we'll only have one more week of regular classes. We'll have three weeks of English camps to do in January though, two weeks of which are half-days. Also, we'll be attending a special 10 day camp outside of Seoul at the end of January, for which we'll be getting quite a nice bit of extra cash.
We'll have some time off between now and then to do some traveling too. We're scheming up plans to go to Japan for New Years Eve, and we're planning on going to Thailand and potentially Cambodia too in February.
After that we'll be halfway through, and we'll be thrust into a five month long stretch with practically no holidays, which I've heard described as "the longest five months of your life" by some of the veterans here.
As for the financial front (the impetus for it all) we're four months in and have ~$5,000 saved. Which is on track for the goal of $15,000 by the end. Of course, our travel plans will probably shrink this a bit. But that's the kind of thing we're planning on doing with this money anyway. And the special winter camp will make up for some of that.
Well, I better get back to work here on Christmas Eve. Actually it's not too bad, my lesson for this week is Christmas vocabulary and the "Frosty the Snowman" cartoon.
Happy Holidays,
Richy.
We'll have some time off between now and then to do some traveling too. We're scheming up plans to go to Japan for New Years Eve, and we're planning on going to Thailand and potentially Cambodia too in February.
After that we'll be halfway through, and we'll be thrust into a five month long stretch with practically no holidays, which I've heard described as "the longest five months of your life" by some of the veterans here.
As for the financial front (the impetus for it all) we're four months in and have ~$5,000 saved. Which is on track for the goal of $15,000 by the end. Of course, our travel plans will probably shrink this a bit. But that's the kind of thing we're planning on doing with this money anyway. And the special winter camp will make up for some of that.
Well, I better get back to work here on Christmas Eve. Actually it's not too bad, my lesson for this week is Christmas vocabulary and the "Frosty the Snowman" cartoon.
Happy Holidays,
Richy.
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