29.12.07

Winter Break!

We have a week off. An entire week away from school where we get to do whatever we want. Too bad it's only a week. It's the end of our first semester, and the end of the Korean school year. Yesterday I had to say goodbye to the two Vice-Principals at my school because... I won't be seeing them for a month and a half? I'm not sure exactly what the hoopla was about, but apparently the last day of the semester/year is a mildly formal affair. It was the last day of the school year, but I would have expected some sort of graduation ceremony or goodbye to the students event. There was no such thing. I was just taken in to say something kind to the VPs and bow to them. And since they have the final say in affairs related to me (i.e. leaving early or vacation time), I don't have any problems with doing whatever is necessary to keep them happy.

After the formalities they let me leave early. Katie and I had to get to the airport by 5:30 to meet Haley (Katie's younger sister), and it's about a two hour ride on the subway from our apartment. Haley's here to visit for a couple of weeks. We're happy to have some company. The next week should be pretty fun. We don't know what we'll be doing for New Year's Eve, but it doesn't look like we'll be going to Japan like we'd wanted to do. It would end up being too much for Haley to afford. So we'll be sticking around here instead.

It'll be nice to have a break though. We might actually have enough time to relax and reflect and think. Then next week we start our winter camps.

24.12.07

Four Months In

Today marks our fourth month here. That's one-third of our time. And the journey to the half-way mark (six months) is probably going to be fast. Our regular classes end this week, and between now and the beginning of March we'll only have one more week of regular classes. We'll have three weeks of English camps to do in January though, two weeks of which are half-days. Also, we'll be attending a special 10 day camp outside of Seoul at the end of January, for which we'll be getting quite a nice bit of extra cash.

We'll have some time off between now and then to do some traveling too. We're scheming up plans to go to Japan for New Years Eve, and we're planning on going to Thailand and potentially Cambodia too in February.

After that we'll be halfway through, and we'll be thrust into a five month long stretch with practically no holidays, which I've heard described as "the longest five months of your life" by some of the veterans here.

As for the financial front (the impetus for it all) we're four months in and have ~$5,000 saved. Which is on track for the goal of $15,000 by the end. Of course, our travel plans will probably shrink this a bit. But that's the kind of thing we're planning on doing with this money anyway. And the special winter camp will make up for some of that.

Well, I better get back to work here on Christmas Eve. Actually it's not too bad, my lesson for this week is Christmas vocabulary and the "Frosty the Snowman" cartoon.

Happy Holidays,

Richy.

19.12.07

Incheon and the Yellow Sea

On Saturday we planned on going to the Van Gogh exhibit here in Seoul. The exhibit is supposed to be one of the largest assemblages of Van Gogh paintings anywhere in the past decade, and the last showing of Van Goghs in Asia for the next ten years, with two of the largest Museums in the Netherlands loaning paintings from their collections. It started in late November and will continue until March. But our plans were foiled.

None of our friends wanted to get up early enough or weren't interested enough to go. After debating whether or not to go by ourselves to the museum, our friends Tom and Lindsey called us with a somewhat ridiculous suggestion to go to Incheon to see the Yellow Sea. It was already 2:00 in the afternoon and the trip to Incheon is nearly 2 hours from our place. With the sun setting at around 5:00 here we realized that it wouldn't be the most scenic or comfortable outing. Nevertheless, it was an intriguing idea, and I have been wanting to go to Incheon for some time.

Incheon is technically a separate city from Seoul, though you'd be hard pressed to tell where one ends and the other begins. It is one of the busiest ports in the world and is where Seoul's international airport is located. Incheon also has an important role in Korea's recent history. It was in Incheon that Douglas MacArthur and a group of UN soldiers made an amphibious landing to turn the tide in the Korean war. Well, almost turned the tide, as the country is still divided in two. Without a doubt this is one of the most important events of modern Korean history, as the American influence in South Korea has been tremendously influential in every aspect of it's post-war culture, for better or worse. But this isn't the only reason why the Koreans venerate MacArthur, as they also adore him for defeating the Japanese in World War II, which ended the half century Japanese occupation of Korea, one of the most shameful periods of history for the Koreans.

So to illustrate MacArthur's importance they have erected a large statue of MacArthur on top of a hill overlooking Incheon's port. Just how important this statue is can be understood by the simple fact that the statue of Confucius (who can be credited with laying the intellectual and cultural foundations for several east asian cultures) is lower on the hill and quite smaller.

10.12.07

Sinterklass

We went to our Dutch friend Noor's place yesterday to celebrate the Dutch holiday Sinterklaas. Apparently in the Netherlands they have two holidays when we have one. Sinterklaas means just what it sounds like it means: Santa Claus. So whereas we've smashed together a christian holy day and a more secular day of gift giving into one mega-holiday, the Dutch, as well as many of our other European cousins, have two separate days. One Santa Claus day and a separate jesus birthday.

On Sinterklaas in the Netherlands, you exchange gifts. Children wake up to get gifts from stockings, just like Christmas. And families gather etc. Another interesting tradition that is a bit more unusual is that it is common to write rude poems about everyone in attendance. Normally, each person writes a rude poem for someone else. But since Noor was the only Dutch person at her Sinterklaas party, she took it upon herself to write a short poem for all of the guests that came. She tried to walk a fine line between preserving the Sinterklaas rude poem tradition, and not pissing off all of her rather new friends, in other words, what we received were apparently watered down versions of a real Sinterklaas poem. I think she was pretty successful though. My poem was something along the lines of: your better at playing the Wii than you are at Noraebang.

It was interesting to experience a different culture translated around the world like that. Perhaps back home it would seem strange. But, in Asia, when you meet others from European countries, you realize just how closely related the European cultures are, and America is a European culture. So Sinterklaas feels not at all unfamiliar. Of course, if everyone was speaking Dutch it might have been a bit different. But I don't think any European holiday would feel as weird as a traditional Korean Chuseok festival complete with making an entire meal for your dead ancestors....


- by Richy


So Sinterklaas was nice, but the highlight of the weekend for me was the housewarming party we went to on Saturday.

The day started out less than ideal. Richy and I rolled out of the house in the early afternoon to check our bank statements in Suyu, get some lunch and pick up some gifts to bring to our two weekend parties (because we're such social butterflies). I had a run-in with a curb at the bank, which left me with a sore ankle, dirty knees, and scraped up hands --- then at our fancy McDonald's lunch, I spilled my full soda all over the floor, much to the delight of the depressed-looking cleaning girl. Then we headed off to Dongdaemun Stadium, which is the shopping mecca of Seoul, where I was entranced by the garish displays of Christmas lights and bought the bitterest grapefruit juice drink I have ever tasted (only drinkable after considerable watering down). We went to the 1,000 won store (the Korean version of the dollar store) to get some good white elephant-style gifts for the Sinterklaas party, and I found a glowing pink mushroom lamp and Richy found a "classic" mini globe. Korea is the best place I've found yet for buying cheap, hilarious crap (haven't been to China and Japan yet though).

Then we took the short subway ride to Min-Hwa's tiny apartment housewarming party. Although the place is a small studio, she's done an excellent job decorating it with candles, a pretty rug, some houseplants, and the centerpiece of her entertainment center: two very perky-breasted African woman figures. Her mother (who lives in the southern seaside city of Busan) sent a large styrofoam package of Korean king crabs. Although there was only 5 of us, we had 8 huge crabs to share, plus six bottles of wine (which we didn't finish thankfully). Housewarming seems to be a pretty big deal in Korea, but I am glad Richy and I never had one because A: I don't want all my co-teachers to come to my house (I'm afraid my housekeeping may not be up to Korean standards) B: We don't need all that stuff to get rid of when we leave. We spent our post-crab time playing wii sports until Min-Hwa fell asleep and we took the amazingly short cab ride home (typically early morning cab rides seem to take an hour and cost close to 20,000 won, where as this one only cost 8,000). This was the highlight of my weekend because I love crab. We're going to have to make it out to Busan one of these days.

Then we had Sinterklaas, which Richy already covered. Next weekend we may go see the Van Gogh exhibit...


- by Katie