On Saturday we planned on going to the Van Gogh exhibit here in Seoul. The exhibit is supposed to be one of the largest assemblages of Van Gogh paintings anywhere in the past decade, and the last showing of Van Goghs in Asia for the next ten years, with two of the largest Museums in the Netherlands loaning paintings from their collections. It started in late November and will continue until March. But our plans were foiled.
None of our friends wanted to get up early enough or weren't interested enough to go. After debating whether or not to go by ourselves to the museum, our friends Tom and Lindsey called us with a somewhat ridiculous suggestion to go to Incheon to see the Yellow Sea. It was already 2:00 in the afternoon and the trip to Incheon is nearly 2 hours from our place. With the sun setting at around 5:00 here we realized that it wouldn't be the most scenic or comfortable outing. Nevertheless, it was an intriguing idea, and I have been wanting to go to Incheon for some time.
Incheon is technically a separate city from Seoul, though you'd be hard pressed to tell where one ends and the other begins. It is one of the busiest ports in the world and is where Seoul's international airport is located. Incheon also has an important role in Korea's recent history. It was in Incheon that Douglas MacArthur and a group of UN soldiers made an amphibious landing to turn the tide in the Korean war. Well, almost turned the tide, as the country is still divided in two. Without a doubt this is one of the most important events of modern Korean history, as the American influence in South Korea has been tremendously influential in every aspect of it's post-war culture, for better or worse. But this isn't the only reason why the Koreans venerate MacArthur, as they also adore him for defeating the Japanese in World War II, which ended the half century Japanese occupation of Korea, one of the most shameful periods of history for the Koreans.
So to illustrate MacArthur's importance they have erected a large statue of MacArthur on top of a hill overlooking Incheon's port. Just how important this statue is can be understood by the simple fact that the statue of Confucius (who can be credited with laying the intellectual and cultural foundations for several east asian cultures) is lower on the hill and quite smaller.
19.12.07
10.12.07
Sinterklass
We went to our Dutch friend Noor's place yesterday to celebrate the Dutch holiday Sinterklaas. Apparently in the Netherlands they have two holidays when we have one. Sinterklaas means just what it sounds like it means: Santa Claus. So whereas we've smashed together a christian holy day and a more secular day of gift giving into one mega-holiday, the Dutch, as well as many of our other European cousins, have two separate days. One Santa Claus day and a separate jesus birthday.
On Sinterklaas in the Netherlands, you exchange gifts. Children wake up to get gifts from stockings, just like Christmas. And families gather etc. Another interesting tradition that is a bit more unusual is that it is common to write rude poems about everyone in attendance. Normally, each person writes a rude poem for someone else. But since Noor was the only Dutch person at her Sinterklaas party, she took it upon herself to write a short poem for all of the guests that came. She tried to walk a fine line between preserving the Sinterklaas rude poem tradition, and not pissing off all of her rather new friends, in other words, what we received were apparently watered down versions of a real Sinterklaas poem. I think she was pretty successful though. My poem was something along the lines of: your better at playing the Wii than you are at Noraebang.
It was interesting to experience a different culture translated around the world like that. Perhaps back home it would seem strange. But, in Asia, when you meet others from European countries, you realize just how closely related the European cultures are, and America is a European culture. So Sinterklaas feels not at all unfamiliar. Of course, if everyone was speaking Dutch it might have been a bit different. But I don't think any European holiday would feel as weird as a traditional Korean Chuseok festival complete with making an entire meal for your dead ancestors....
- by Richy
So Sinterklaas was nice, but the highlight of the weekend for me was the housewarming party we went to on Saturday.
The day started out less than ideal. Richy and I rolled out of the house in the early afternoon to check our bank statements in Suyu, get some lunch and pick up some gifts to bring to our two weekend parties (because we're such social butterflies). I had a run-in with a curb at the bank, which left me with a sore ankle, dirty knees, and scraped up hands --- then at our fancy McDonald's lunch, I spilled my full soda all over the floor, much to the delight of the depressed-looking cleaning girl. Then we headed off to Dongdaemun Stadium, which is the shopping mecca of Seoul, where I was entranced by the garish displays of Christmas lights and bought the bitterest grapefruit juice drink I have ever tasted (only drinkable after considerable watering down). We went to the 1,000 won store (the Korean version of the dollar store) to get some good white elephant-style gifts for the Sinterklaas party, and I found a glowing pink mushroom lamp and Richy found a "classic" mini globe. Korea is the best place I've found yet for buying cheap, hilarious crap (haven't been to China and Japan yet though).
Then we took the short subway ride to Min-Hwa's tiny apartment housewarming party. Although the place is a small studio, she's done an excellent job decorating it with candles, a pretty rug, some houseplants, and the centerpiece of her entertainment center: two very perky-breasted African woman figures. Her mother (who lives in the southern seaside city of Busan) sent a large styrofoam package of Korean king crabs. Although there was only 5 of us, we had 8 huge crabs to share, plus six bottles of wine (which we didn't finish thankfully). Housewarming seems to be a pretty big deal in Korea, but I am glad Richy and I never had one because A: I don't want all my co-teachers to come to my house (I'm afraid my housekeeping may not be up to Korean standards) B: We don't need all that stuff to get rid of when we leave. We spent our post-crab time playing wii sports until Min-Hwa fell asleep and we took the amazingly short cab ride home (typically early morning cab rides seem to take an hour and cost close to 20,000 won, where as this one only cost 8,000). This was the highlight of my weekend because I love crab. We're going to have to make it out to Busan one of these days.
Then we had Sinterklaas, which Richy already covered. Next weekend we may go see the Van Gogh exhibit...
- by Katie
On Sinterklaas in the Netherlands, you exchange gifts. Children wake up to get gifts from stockings, just like Christmas. And families gather etc. Another interesting tradition that is a bit more unusual is that it is common to write rude poems about everyone in attendance. Normally, each person writes a rude poem for someone else. But since Noor was the only Dutch person at her Sinterklaas party, she took it upon herself to write a short poem for all of the guests that came. She tried to walk a fine line between preserving the Sinterklaas rude poem tradition, and not pissing off all of her rather new friends, in other words, what we received were apparently watered down versions of a real Sinterklaas poem. I think she was pretty successful though. My poem was something along the lines of: your better at playing the Wii than you are at Noraebang.
It was interesting to experience a different culture translated around the world like that. Perhaps back home it would seem strange. But, in Asia, when you meet others from European countries, you realize just how closely related the European cultures are, and America is a European culture. So Sinterklaas feels not at all unfamiliar. Of course, if everyone was speaking Dutch it might have been a bit different. But I don't think any European holiday would feel as weird as a traditional Korean Chuseok festival complete with making an entire meal for your dead ancestors....
- by Richy
So Sinterklaas was nice, but the highlight of the weekend for me was the housewarming party we went to on Saturday.
The day started out less than ideal. Richy and I rolled out of the house in the early afternoon to check our bank statements in Suyu, get some lunch and pick up some gifts to bring to our two weekend parties (because we're such social butterflies). I had a run-in with a curb at the bank, which left me with a sore ankle, dirty knees, and scraped up hands --- then at our fancy McDonald's lunch, I spilled my full soda all over the floor, much to the delight of the depressed-looking cleaning girl. Then we headed off to Dongdaemun Stadium, which is the shopping mecca of Seoul, where I was entranced by the garish displays of Christmas lights and bought the bitterest grapefruit juice drink I have ever tasted (only drinkable after considerable watering down). We went to the 1,000 won store (the Korean version of the dollar store) to get some good white elephant-style gifts for the Sinterklaas party, and I found a glowing pink mushroom lamp and Richy found a "classic" mini globe. Korea is the best place I've found yet for buying cheap, hilarious crap (haven't been to China and Japan yet though).
Then we took the short subway ride to Min-Hwa's tiny apartment housewarming party. Although the place is a small studio, she's done an excellent job decorating it with candles, a pretty rug, some houseplants, and the centerpiece of her entertainment center: two very perky-breasted African woman figures. Her mother (who lives in the southern seaside city of Busan) sent a large styrofoam package of Korean king crabs. Although there was only 5 of us, we had 8 huge crabs to share, plus six bottles of wine (which we didn't finish thankfully). Housewarming seems to be a pretty big deal in Korea, but I am glad Richy and I never had one because A: I don't want all my co-teachers to come to my house (I'm afraid my housekeeping may not be up to Korean standards) B: We don't need all that stuff to get rid of when we leave. We spent our post-crab time playing wii sports until Min-Hwa fell asleep and we took the amazingly short cab ride home (typically early morning cab rides seem to take an hour and cost close to 20,000 won, where as this one only cost 8,000). This was the highlight of my weekend because I love crab. We're going to have to make it out to Busan one of these days.
Then we had Sinterklaas, which Richy already covered. Next weekend we may go see the Van Gogh exhibit...
- by Katie
26.11.07
Thanksgiving
We had a thanksgiving dinner on Saturday. Our friends Tom and Lindsey from back home came, as well as our newer friends Kitho from North Carolina, Min-Hwa from Busan, Korea, and Noor from the Netherlands. It was Min-Hwa and Noor's first time celebrating thanksgiving.
Katie prepared pies and stuffing, Kitho made mashed potatoes, Tom and Lindsey brought some wine, I made sweet potatoes. Unfortunately turkey isn't very easy to get or affordable here, so we had to have a roast chicken instead. But it wasn't too far from a traditional meal.
After dinner and pies, and a few bottles of wine, we played some Wii games.
Then we had a couple of bottles of soju.
And then we we were ready to go to NORAEBANG (고래방). Not exactly traditional, but it was fun anyway.
There's a Noraebang near our place that I've wanted to go to for a while. Noraebangs are very prevalent. You cannot walk down any street without seeing several (Unless, of course, you can't read korean, in which case you'd be oblivious). And so, because of their prevalence, they try to differentiate themselves. This particular Noraebang tries to set itself apart from the rest by having a creepy alien-nest theme. Each of the Noraebang singing rooms is covered in a plaster to look like some sort of alien plant is growing over them. And there are creepy statues everywhere. Inside the nest-rooms, though, is just your typical Noraebang set-up. Several television sets for the Karaoke part, lined with benches, a giant remote control to input the songs, and some tamborines.
All Noraebangs have an English language section, though I'm beginning to realize that they all have the same crappy selection. Still it's a couple of hundred english songs to choose from.
We paid up front for an hour at 15,000 won (about 15 dollars) and sang to our hearts content and until our voices were fading.
It was a strange but satisfying thanksgiving.
Katie prepared pies and stuffing, Kitho made mashed potatoes, Tom and Lindsey brought some wine, I made sweet potatoes. Unfortunately turkey isn't very easy to get or affordable here, so we had to have a roast chicken instead. But it wasn't too far from a traditional meal.
After dinner and pies, and a few bottles of wine, we played some Wii games.
Then we had a couple of bottles of soju.
And then we we were ready to go to NORAEBANG (고래방). Not exactly traditional, but it was fun anyway.
There's a Noraebang near our place that I've wanted to go to for a while. Noraebangs are very prevalent. You cannot walk down any street without seeing several (Unless, of course, you can't read korean, in which case you'd be oblivious). And so, because of their prevalence, they try to differentiate themselves. This particular Noraebang tries to set itself apart from the rest by having a creepy alien-nest theme. Each of the Noraebang singing rooms is covered in a plaster to look like some sort of alien plant is growing over them. And there are creepy statues everywhere. Inside the nest-rooms, though, is just your typical Noraebang set-up. Several television sets for the Karaoke part, lined with benches, a giant remote control to input the songs, and some tamborines.
All Noraebangs have an English language section, though I'm beginning to realize that they all have the same crappy selection. Still it's a couple of hundred english songs to choose from.
We paid up front for an hour at 15,000 won (about 15 dollars) and sang to our hearts content and until our voices were fading.
It was a strange but satisfying thanksgiving.
19.11.07
Korean tastes
Some interesting things I have discovered about food in Korea in the past few weeks:
First, I taught a lesson on recipes to my students last week. The recipes chosen as examples for an activity were chili con carne and pancakes. I expected that these dishes would be popular with students since brown-sugar filled pancakes are a popular street food and the flavor of chili closely resembles several spicy Korean dishes. While showing a cooking video of a chef making chili, the students were fine...they watched intently as she cooked the onions, peppers, and ground meat in a pan. Then came the time to add the beans, and in each class, the pouring of the beans into the pan aroused a sound of protest from the students. This sound of protest turned to utter disgust when she added tomatoes (according to the co-teacher they were saying "dog-food" in Korean), and finally outright indignation when she plopped a dollop of sour cream on top. One student asked me "Do you eat that?!" I realize in hindsight that Koreans really do take seriously the idea that tomatoes are a fruit (as evidenced by their appearance in several sweet cafeteria fruit salads - to my dismay) and beans are typically seen as a sweetened filling for rice cakes or candies. They did like the pancakes though. Second, with the advent of Thanksgiving, I have been trying to find turkey. When talking with my co-teachers about turkey and telling them how much I like it, I was surprised to find that those who had tried turkey before (usually on trips to the US or Canada) absolutely hated it. I don't really understand why. I tried to tell them it's just like chicken, but better, and they give me a weird look. Could all of America really be wrong? Is our most delicious poultry product really that disgusting to the rest of the world? While Koreans eat chicken, I think they are much bigger fans of pork and beef (and various types of disgusting-looking seafood). Maybe they just don't love poultry the way we do in the US. It explains why on my first trip to Costco in Korea I found spicy pork bakes instead of the classically delicious chicken bake. Luckily when we went yesterday the chicken bakes magically appeared and I heartily indulged myself.
While restaurants in Korea are cheap and plentiful, it's just not the same as home.
By Katie
12.11.07
Katie vs. Bukhansan
My co-teacher Faith has for weeks been excited for me to her friend Barbara who teaches at Indian Head International school just north of here. Apparently Barbara is a pretty avid hiker, so my opportunity to meet her came this last weekend when Faith invited me to hike 8 of the 12 fortress gates of Bukhansan. Richy decided that he preferred to spend his Saturday engaged in more leisurely pursuits.
I got up on Saturday at my usual weekday wake up time of 7:00am, dressed, ate breakfast, and took the 15 minute walk to Suyu station. There, I saw a group of older Korean men greeting each other, dressed in typical Korean hiking fashion. I stood there awkwardly as we stared at each other, wondering whether we were in the same hiking party, but too reserved to ask. When Faith showed up it turned out these were the other teachers we were hiking with, from a nearby high school. Here, I'll introduce them by their nicknames: Kenny Rogers (so called because he sings Kenny Rogers songs well at Norebang, and insisted on singing a few as we were hiking), a math teacher who seemed to speak the least English of the group, and made a point to brag about his son who lives and works in the US. When I asked him what his son did for work he replied, "Server. Do you know DQ? He serve ice cream there. And study English." The official leader of our group (although I am not sure why) was a social studies teacher by the nickname of Kisaro (again, a song-related name of some sort) who spoke good English and was very kind to everyone throughout the trip. Finally, the official photographer of our group was Andy who has apparently traveled and hiked extensively throughout the world, including Mt. Rainier and Glacier National Park, so he was very eager to talk to me about hiking in the Pacific Northwest.
I was also soon introduced to Barbara, a woman in her mid to late 60's who has taught all over the world, hikes like a teenager and who seems like an altogether cool person, originally from Colorado. I was also introduced to Annie, a 27-year-old teacher at a nearby private elementary school who lives with her husband (also a teacher) in the dorms at Indian Head school (that's how she knows Barbara).
We all caught a bus from Suyu to the trail head which took about 30 minutes. It also took us through one of the quaintest areas of Seoul that I have seen so far: ornate copper light posts, cute little shops in old traditional buildings, and bright fall colors all around. Right at the trail head was an expensive hotel boasting a "sky view" restaurant which looked like a miniature, boxy version of the space needle.
The first leg of our hike was long, rocky and steep, but as soon as we reached the first gate of the ancient fortress wall (originally built in 132 AD and modified, extended and rebuilt many times since) the hike leveled out a bit and turned into more of a long walk for a few hours. Kisaro soon led us away from the wall and we found ourselves taking "shortcuts" that took us up and over a series of steep granite peaks. At the fifth gate we sat down and ate a lunch of a various types of rice cakes, persimmon, and homemade wine. Then came the most strenuous part of the journey, where we went all the way up and all the way down three separate peaks, and at some points we were hoisting ourselves up cables and poles much like my first Korean hiking experience.
The last three gates passed anticlimactically and we ended our journey surrounded by tour buses near the grand South gate of the fortress, where tourist shops have set themselves up to specialize in food and hiking gear. Also Annie, Barbara and I ended the hike with new nicknames: Ms. Minnesota, Ms. Colorado, and Ms. Washington. I guess we seem like beauty queens in Korean eyes. We were invited to dinner, but since Barbara is a strict vegetarian who avoids eating in Korean restaurants whenever possible, and since I wanted to get home to have dinner with Richy, we ended up getting a ride home with a fourth male Korean teacher who had apparently decided not to come on the hike in order to help his wife make kimchi. He was introduced to me as Magpie and seemed to speak no English whatsoever, but had a good taste in music as evidenced by what was played on his car radio.
While I enjoyed the 7+ hour hike (we started at 9am and finished at 6pm, but took some breaks along the way), the fact that my thighs feel like they're screaming every time I move two days later makes me hesitant to want to go again anytime soon. Maybe climbing Korean mountains once every other month or so is enough...
By Katie
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